Kristen Baird, a jewellery designer whose signature style evokes nature’s natural beauty, gave her tips for heirloom redesigns:

1. Stay Loyal to Your Aesthetic

In art, a commission is a request for a unique original work in the style of a particular artist. I consider all my custom pieces to be commissions because they are original works of art created in collaboration with the client. While in the past I used to work very hard to accommodate every request, my business really started to thrive when I started being true to myself. Now, people come to me specifically for my Kristen Baird® style. I’m happier and so are my clients!

2. Honour Their Story

Heirloom jewellery is special because of the story it tells. Take the time to learn about the person this jewellery once belonged to and why your client loved them. Then, incorporate those sweet personal touches to transform your piece from something beautiful to something extraordinary. A beautiful story elevates your piece to a genuine work of art.

Whether it’s a simple redesign or a completely new creation, jewellers can use their expertise and creativity to craft a custom heirloom that reflects the customer’s unique story and history.

3. Facilitate Transformation

Sometimes, clients will come to you with jewellery connected to difficult changes, such as divorce or a death in the family. They may have complicated feelings about these pieces and how their meaning has shifted over time. By listening closely, you can help your client process these changes by recreating their old jewellery into something new and forward-looking that they can treasure.

4. Consider Sets and Multiples

If a client comes to you with several pieces or a large piece with lots of elements, consider breaking it up into smaller pieces. Matching rings and necklaces make gorgeous gifts for family members, or you could opt for a stacking ring set or a whole matching ensemble!

5. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle

The more elements of heirloom jewellery you’re able to incorporate into your redesign, the more special the piece becomes—and the more sustainable. I always challenge myself to use as many of the original materials as possible, from melting down metals to setting every teeny accent diamond. It saves on cost and is better for the environment.

Commissions often incorporate heirloom gems and reflect the individual or couple. These original pieces are true treasures that can be passed down for generations.

6. Be Transparent and Communicative

Transparency has always been a core value of my business. Whether we’re talking about pricing, design, or timeline, I always make sure my clients and I are on the same page. It’s important to agree on everything before getting to work. This will put their mind at ease and avoid a lot of future headaches for you!

7. Post and Promote

The process of transforming heirloom jewellery into brand-new pieces is exciting and fascinating. Take the extra time to document the process and then share it on social media. This will get people talking and draw more potential customers. Plus, clients usually love seeing their pieces featured. It’s a win-win-win!

Article courtesy of Interweave

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Listening To The Conscience of choosing what’s ethical and sustainable
As millennials, we’re a generation that cares about sustainability and ethical practices. We want to know that the products we buy are made in a way that’s environmentally friendly and socially responsible. When it comes to diamonds, this can be a real concern.

Traditional diamond mining can have a negative impact on the environment, as well as on the communities where it takes place. By choosing lab-grown diamonds, we can be sure that we’re not contributing to these problems.

Lab-grown diamonds are also an ethical choice. Traditional diamond mining has been associated with human rights abuses. By choosing lab-grown diamonds, we can be confident that we’re not supporting these practices.

Love for bling in a budget
Let’s face it: diamonds are expensive. As millennials, we’re facing a lot of financial challenges, from student loan debt to a tough job market. Many of us simply can’t afford to spend thousands of dollars on a diamond engagement ring.

Lab-grown diamonds, on the other hand, are much more affordable than mined diamonds. They cost 60-90% less than mined diamonds – this makes them a more practical choice for many millennials.

Quality matters
One of the biggest misconceptions about lab-grown diamonds is that they’re of lower quality than mined diamonds. In fact, lab-grown diamonds are just as high quality as mined diamonds, and they have the same properties. They’re just made in a different way.

No more compromising with uniqueness
As millennials, we value individuality and self-expression. We want to stand out from the crowd and show off our unique style. With lab-grown diamonds, we have the opportunity to create customised pieces of jewellery that are truly one-of-a-kind.

Because lab-grown diamonds are made in a lab, they can be created in a variety of colours and shapes. This means that we can create jewellery that’s tailored to our individual tastes and preferences.

Keep up with the timeless trends
Can you find a millennial who isn’t aware of the latest trends?  Millennials love to be on the cutting edge of fashion and technology. Lab-grown diamonds are a relatively new trend, and they’re gaining popularity among millennials who want to stay ahead of the curve. By choosing lab-grown diamonds, we can show that we’re hip, trendy, and in-the-know.

Lab-grown diamonds are a smart choice for millennials who want to make a statement with their jewellery. Whether it’s about sustainability, affordability, quality, customisation, or trendiness, lab-grown diamonds offer a variety of benefits that are hard to ignore.

By embracing this new technology, millennials are leading the way towards a more ethical and sustainable future for the diamond industry.

So, the next time you’re in the market for a piece of jewellery, consider choosing a lab-grown diamond and join the growing number of millennials who are making a positive impact on the world.

Article courtesy of Jewel Box

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We trust this newsletter finds you well We are writing to bring your attention to a significant development that affects all high-value dealers within our sector.

Recent changes in legislation have officially designated the jewellery industry as an accountable institution under the Financial Intelligence Centre Act (FICA). This move aims to enhance transparency and combat financial crimes related to high-value goods.

On 19 December 2022, a new category was added to the list of accountable institutions in Schedule 1 of the FICA, 2001, as one of the steps to address gaps in South Africa’s anti-money laundering and combating the financing of terrorism policies. This law may apply to your business.

A high-value goods dealer (HVGD) – Item 20 of Schedule 1 to FICA
Item 20 in Schedule 1 to FICA provides as follows: A HVGD includes “a person who carries on the business of dealing in high-value goods in respect of any transaction where such a business receives payment in any form to the value of R100 000,00 or more, whether the payment is made in a single operation or in more than one operation that appears to be linked, where ‘high-value goods’ means any item that is valued in that business at R100 000,00 or more.”

This definition is intended to cover a wide range of trading activity. Based on preliminary guidance from the Financial Intelligence Centre (FIC), this category of accountable institutions includes, among others, dealers in precious metals, precious stones and diamonds.

A HVGD also includes dealers in antiques, collectibles, fine art, boats, aircraft and luxury motor vehicles where the value is equal to or more than R100 000.

The following obligations are imposed on accountable institutions in terms of FICA.

An accountable institution must:

• Register with the FIC as soon as possible using the FIC’s online registration and reporting system called goAML. Registration with the FIC is free.
• Develop and implement a risk management and compliance programme (RMCP). A RMCP deals with an institution’s necessary processes and procedures to comply with FICA obligations by following a risk-based approach;
• implement customer identification and verification processes, and conduct customer due diligence;
• appoint a compliance officer and in some cases money-laundering reporting officers, if required; and
• regularly train employees on FICA compliance.

To register, click here : https://goweb.fic.gov.za/goAMLWeb_PRD/WebRegistration/NewEntityCR 

Directive 7 of 2023: Submission of a risk and compliance return to the FIC by specified accountable institutions
Directive 7 was issued by the FIC on 31 March 2023 and applies to all accountable institutions listed in inter alia item 20 (this applies to high-value goods dealers). It instructs accountable institutions to submit information on their understanding of money laundering and related financial crimes, together with their assessment of compliance with obligations in terms of FICA, in a risk and compliance return. The submission date of the ‘risk and compliance return questionnaire’ is 31 July 2023 (reporting will be from 1 January 2023 to 30 June 2023).

Here’s a link to the online portal:  RISK COMPLIANCE RETURN QUESTIONNAIRE (office.com)

Side note: This return is to see what your understanding is in terms of FICA and what processes and policies you have in place.  If you have no / little understanding of FICA or processes in place, just be honest.  Even if you answer no to everything.  This is how FIC will be able to assess where more training, education and assistance are needed.  They have given a lot of leeway for submission as the deadline has long passed.  But if you submit your return now, the chances of being penalised are greatly diminished.

As the jewellery industry embraces this new era of accountability, we encourage you to view FICA compliance not only as a regulatory obligation but also as an opportunity to strengthen your business practices and contribute to the integrity of our industry.

Yours sincerely,
CPM Compliance Team

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In the sphere of diamond and jewellery purchases, tourists departing South Africa have encountered significant challenges in claiming VAT refunds. The intricacies of the process, coupled with stringent requirements, have often left travellers frustrated and dissatisfied. However, recent correspondence from the South African Revenue Service (SARS) indicates a shift in policy that aims to alleviate some of these difficulties.

Confirmation emails from SARS reveal a notable change in the requirements for VAT refund claims on polished diamonds and diamond jewellery. Previously, tourists were obligated to provide Kimberley Process (KP) Certifications, as well as Valuation and Diamond Laboratory Certification certificates. However, SARS has announced the halting of these demands, signalling a more streamlined approach to processing VAT refunds for such purchases.

This update comes as a significant relief to both tourists and industry stakeholders who have long advocated for simplifying the VAT refund process. The elimination of clumsy certification requirements signifies progress towards a more tourist-friendly environment and acknowledges the importance of the diamond and jewellery sector in South Africa’s economy.

Despite these positive developments, challenges persist within the VAT refund landscape. SARS has cautioned that a backlog of claims currently exists within the VAT Refund Agency, with processing times potentially stretching up to three months.

Additionally, reports of queues at VAT refund stations in airports have surfaced, prompting advice for travellers to allocate extra time for processing their claims.

Acknowledging the concerns raised by both tourists and industry members, efforts are underway to address issues surrounding the VAT Refund Agency. Complaints have been noted, and steps are being taken to engage with relevant SARS offices to seek resolutions and enhancements to the refund process.

In conclusion, while recent changes in VAT refund requirements for diamond and jewellery purchases signify progress, challenges persist in the realm of tourist refunds departing South Africa. As stakeholders continue to collaborate with SARS to improve efficiency and customer experience, it is hoped that the VAT refund process will become more seamless and responsive to the needs of travellers in the future.

If you are experiencing any difficulties with the VAT Refund Agency, please contact The Jewellery Council of South Africa to assist you.

Article source: Lorna Lloyd, CEO of the Jewellery Council of South Africa

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Can you describe the piece of jewellery you created? What was your inspiration and thought process behind it?
My piece has a feeling of modern design and was inspired by the aloe vera plant. It is notorious for its outward appearance. I made use of a peridot olive cubic zirconia stone as it emerges from inside of the aloe plant – it even shows that the bitterness of the aloe juice is actually precious as it can give you healthy skin and overall good health.

What techniques and materials did you use to create your winning piece?
I used platinum and silver metals. The piece is hand manufactured using piercing assisted by a laser machine and soldering techniques with modern nouveau art lines style, decorative motifs as they have geometric shapes on it. I used the geometric shapes that are incorporated within the decorative motifs art style.

Were there any specific challenges or obstacles you encountered during the making of the piece, and how did you overcome them?
Having to solder two metals together and working with platinum as it was my first time. Especially when making wire, it really challenged me, as platinum is way harder and has a higher melting point than silver. Learning how to heat up both metals at once and finding out which one works better so that the piece does not separate.

What advice would you give to aspiring jewellery designers who are looking to compete in similar competitions or pursue a career in jewellery making?
I definitely would like to say just go for it and don’t limit yourself. Challenge yourselves as you never know, don’t be intimidated by what you see others do and big names. Don’t decide you are not good enough, believe me you are more than enough. You are what God says you are not what life says you are and remember He created us with different talents – you will never know until you do it. Take that as an advantage of building yourself from the best people and big names and then motivate yourself from their work and aim to be like them or even better.

Are there any specific mentors, artists, or designers who have influenced your work and helped shape your creative vision?
Yes there are mentors, artists, and designers who helped me to shape my creativity which are my trainers and my bosses, as well as the support of family and friends.

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Crucially, it equips them to systematically monitor and improve performance, ensuring optimal team efficiency and sustained growth. Team leadership is enhanced, promoting collaboration and high performance, while building strong relationships with superiors and stakeholders is now a hallmark of their skill set.

The qualification instills principles of risk, financial and knowledge management, and business ethics, ensuring adherence to regulatory frameworks. As we anticipate the certificate issuance, we celebrate their dedication to professional development, a testament to CPM’s commitment to continuous learning and growth. Well done to all 3 of our awesome staff members for this great achievement!

From left to right: Georgia Walters, Vusumzi Mntambo and Bianca Pitt

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Tom Altavilla, our Gauteng Sales Manager, oversees the Johannesburg area and is a regular at Fricker Road. Many of our clients in this new precinct were in fact our neighbours when we were still based at the Ridge Road precinct.

Tom was joined on the day by Malcolm Jenner, one of CPM’s Directors who also manages our KZN Branch, and our Gauteng Branch Manager, Shannon Mackay. As well as Sancia Mincher from Jewellers Network who partnered with us at the event. Simphiwe Xaba and Shane Van Biljon from our Gauteng team were also on hand to assist our clients.

A lucky draw was held for all clients who attended and the winner was Leza McLeod from Elemental Studios. She won herself a 1 Ounce silver African medallion made by our sister company, Moon Investments.

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Can you describe the piece of jewellery you created? What was your inspiration and thought process behind it?
The platinum piece I made is a moveable pendant that can transform into a bracelet to flow around the wearer’s wrist. The concept originated when I noticed chairs stacked on top of each other. While the flowing organic shapes appeared to build up a sense of movement from all angles but still united to create a sense of togetherness and diversity. That’s why I designed an experimental piece that can be worn comfortably as a pendant or bracelet.

Can you share the story behind the design, and any symbolism or cultural significance associated with it, if applicable?
Many Gen-Z and Millennials feel like they’ve been stringed along through life, not knowing what will happen in the future. My one-of-a-kind statement platinum piece symbolises this as everything is “stringed together” like code forming a flowing sequence. These generations need to adapt and be flexible, just like my platinum bracelet has a sense of flexibility within its structure. This piece lets people express their individuality, through the pieces that look different individually through shape, size, and texture. Each piece has a different set of behaviours similar to how people have different experiences. Millennials created a sharing economy, and my piece symbolises this with the different levels like how generations build on previous generations to accomplish more.

What techniques and materials did you use to create your winning piece, and what makes platinum a unique and challenging material to work with?
Platinum is a unique and challenging material because of its durability. It takes long to clean and polish, however it can go really thin and still be durable. This allowed me to make a larger more durable piece. The finished polish is also really nice.

How can placing in the PlatAfrica Awards impact your career and your future as a jewellery designer?
It shows I have potential. It could possibly lead to better job opportunities. Designing for a competition is like designing for a client. They have specific requests and needs, and you won’t achieve anything unless you can meet these needs. After graduating university, I might get hired by a place that would like me to compete again.

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Their creations, the result of innovative designs and meticulous craftsmanship, captivated the audience and the first to fourth year winner’s went on to win themselves  a 1Oz Silver Medallion from Moon Investments.  The exhibition not only celebrated the union of two distinct art forms but also showcased the talent and imaginative spirit of these emerging jewellery designers.

First year winner: Peter-Ivan Mitrovich

Second year winner: Ingrid Nienaber

Third year winner: Kendra Platen

Fourth year winner: Eloise Retief

Congratulations to all the winners! We look forward to the 2024 Visual Poetry Exhibition.

Pictured: First to Fourth year winners and runners up

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